April 18 - 20, 1806 Up the Columbia - The Dalles and the "Long Narrows"

Home The Volcanoes of Lewis and Clark Map of the Journey Volcanoes, Basalt Plateaus, Major Rivers, etc. The Volcanoes Mount Adams, Mount Hood, Mount Jefferson, Mount Rainier, and Mount St. Helens CALENDAR of the Journey October 1805 to June 1806 Along the Journey Pacific Northwest Maps - Columbia River, Volcanoes, Flood Basalts, Missoula Floods, Geology, etc. The Corps of Discovery The Journey of Lewis and Clark About the Reference Materials The Journals, Biddle/Allen, DeVoto, Gass, Moulton, Topo Maps, and others USGS Lewis and Clark Links Links to USGS Websites highlighting the Lewis and Clark Journey Resources Publications Referenced and Websites Visited

PREVIOUS April 16-17 Leaving the Gorge, Rock Fort and The Dalles

April 18-20 Up the Columbia, The Dalles and the "The Long Narrows" The Dalles Dam, Mount Hood, Spearfish Lake Park and "Big Eddy", Five-Mile Rapids and "The Long Narrows"

CONTINUE April 21 Up the Columbia, Celilo Falls to the Deschutes

On October 7, 1805, Lewis and Clark and the "Corps of Discovery" began their journey down the Clearwater River and into the volcanics of the Pacific Northwest. The Corps travelled from the Clearwater to the Snake and down the "Great Columbia", finally reaching the Pacific Ocean on November 15, 1805. Along the journey they encountered the lava flows of the Columbia Plateau, river channels carved by the great "Missoula Floods", and the awesome beauty of five Cascade Range volcanoes. [Click map for brief summary about the area]

Heading for Home - April 1806 Up the Columbia - The Dalles and the "Long Narrows"

Lewis and Clark's "main" camp from April 15 through April 17 was at "Rock Fort", near Mill Creek, The Dalles, Oregon.

Friday, April 18, 1806

We set out this morning after an early breakfast, and crossing the river, continued along the north side for four miles, to the foot of the first rapid [Three Mile Rapids, location of today's The Dalles Dam].

Along the Journey - April 18, 1806

The Dalles Dam: The Dalles Dam is located 192 miles upstream from the mouth of the Columbia River, two miles east of the city of The Dalles, Oregon. The dam extends 1.5 miles from the Oregon shore to the navigation lock on the Washington shore. Because the boundary between the two states follows the old river channel, The Dalles Dam is almost entirely in the state of Washington. The project consists of a navigation lock, spillway, powerhouse and fish passage facilities. Various recreational facilities are provided along Lake Celilo, the 24-mile-long impoundment behind the dam. -- U.S. Corps of Engineers Website, 2002 1888 Map (section of original), Columbia River at Three Mile Rapids, the Big Eddy, and Five Mile Rapids. (Click to enlarge). Original Map: Map of Columbia River from The Dalles to Celilo, Oregon, 1880. Scale 1:30,000. Relief shown by contours. Shows a section of the Columbia River, including fall and rapids, water gauges, and "basaltic" region. Original map is reduced from sheet 1 and 2, survey of 1879-1880, Published G.P.O. 1889. University of Washington Archives #UW66. -- University of Washington Library Archives Website, 2002 1934 Map (section of original), from The Dalles 1:125,000 topographic quadrangle. (Click to enlarge). The Columbia River upsteam of The Dalles, Oregon (the Washington side is not depicted on this map), including Three Mile Rapids, Big Eddy, and Five Mile Rapids. Original map surveyed in 1929-30, contour interval of 50 feet. -- University of Washington Library Collections Website, 2002 1934 Map, The Dalles (section of original), from The Dalles 1:125,000 topographic quadrangle. (Click to enlarge). Original map surveyed in 1929-30, contour interval of 50 feet. The Washington side of the river is not depicted on the map. -- University of Washington Library Collections Website, 2002 1946 Map (section of original), Columbia River with The Dalles, Three-Mile Rapids, Big Eddy, Five-Mile Rapids. (Click to enlarge). Office of Coast Surveys, Historical Maps and Charts, Columbia River, Bonneville to The Dalles, 1946, Chart#6157, 1:40,000. -- NOAA Office of Coast Survey Website, 2004 1985 Map (section of original), Columbia River with The Dalles, The Dalles Dam, Three-Mile Rapids, Big Eddy, Five-Mile Rapids. (Click to enlarge). Office of Coast Surveys, Historical Maps and Charts, Columbia River, Bonneville to The Dalles, 1985, Chart#18531, 1:40,000. -- NOAA Office of Coast Survey Website, 2004 1997, NASA Image, Columbia River from The Dalles to Rock Creek (Click to enlarge). View from space - northeast looking photograph of Columbia River, The Dalles Dam, John Day Dam, Miller Island, Maryhill area, Deschutes River, John Day River, and Rock Creek, 1997. The Columbia River flows upper right (east) to lower left (west). NASA Earth from Space #STS085-734-085. -- NASA Earth from Space Website, 2002 1958, All the rapids of the Columbia River were inundated in March 1957 when The Dalles Dam was completed, forming Lake Celilo. (Click to enlarge). Oregon State Archives Photograph #7246(Ben Maxwell). Photograph Date: September 15, 1958. Photographer: Ben Maxwell. From: Salem Public Library Collection. -- Oregon State Archives Website, 2002 Aerial view, The Dalles Dam, Oregon. (Click to enlarge). In this image, Oregon is on the left with the city of The Dalles (upper central) and Interstate-84 prominently running through the view. Washington State is on the right. -- U.S. Army Corps of Engineer Website, 2003 Learn MORE about this Area, Flood Basalts, Lava Plateaus, and Ice Age Floods

Mount Hood creates a backdrop for The Dalles.

Along the Journey - April 19, 1806

Mount Hood and The Dalles, Oregon: Mount Hood, at 11,245 feet high, is the fourth highest peak in the Cascade Range and the highest in the state of Oregon. The peak dominates the skyline from the Portland, Oregon, metropolitan area to the wheat fields of Wasco and Sherman Counties of eastern Oregon. Map, "Lewis and Clark Volcano Sitings" 1993 Map, Mount Hood and Vicinity, showing river drainages which flow into the Columbia river. (Click to enlarge). Includes Hood River and the Sandy River. Map modified from: Brantley and Scott, 1993. 1814 Map, Lewis and Clark's map of the Columbia River (section of original). (Click to enlarge.) Map includes three of the five volcanoes Lewis and Clark saw and commented on. While the journals mention the expedition seeing Mount Adams, it does not appear on their map. Mount Jefferson is just visible to the south (bottom) and Mount Rainier is to the north but off the map. From the "Nicholas Biddle/Paul Allen" 1814 publication. Original Map: "A Map of Lewis and Clark's Track, Across the Western Portion of North America, From the Mississippi to the Pacific Ocean". From: History of the expedition under the command of Captains Lewis and Clark : to the sources of the Missouri, thence across the Rocky Mountains and down the river Columbia to the Pacific Ocean : performed during the years 1804-5-6 : by order of the government of the United States / prepared for the press by Paul Allen. Philadelphia : Bradford and Insskeep, 1814. Harold B. Lee Library, Brigham Young University #upbover maps37. -- Brigham Young University, Harold B. Lee Library Website, 2004. 1853 Map, Washington and Oregon and the Columbia River, from the Clearwater River to the Snake River and down the Columbia River to the Pacific Ocean (section of original). (Click to enlarge). Includes: Clearwater River (Kooskooski), Lapwai Creek (Lapwai R.), Snake River (Saptin or Lewis R.), Columbia River (Columbia R.), Yakima River (Yakima R.), Walla Walla River (Wallawalla R.), Umatilla River (Umatilla R.), Willow Creek (Quesnells R.), John Day River (John day's R.), Deschutes River (Fall R.), Willamette River (Willammette R.), and Cowlitz River (Cowlitz R.). Original Map: "Map of California, Oregon, Washington, Utah, and New Mexico (1853)", by Thomas Cowperthwait & Co. Washington State University Archives #WSU22. -- Washington State University Library Collections Website, 2003 1855 Map, Columbia River from Vancouver to the Pacific, including Mount St. Helens (section of original). (Click to enlarge). Original Map: "Map of Oregon and Washington Territories: showing the proposed Northern Railroad route to the Pacific Ocean, by John Disturnell, 1855. University of Washington Archives #UW155. -- University of Washington Library Collections Website, 2002 1860 Map, Columbia River, Washington State, and Oregon (section of original). (Click to enlarge). Original Map: Map of Oregon, Washington, and British Columbia, (1860). This map dates between March 2nd, 1861 (when the Dakota Territory was formed) and March 4th, 1863 (when the Idaho Territory was formed from eastern Washington and western Dakota) Nearing retirement from a thirty year long and rather successful career, S. Augustus Mitchell printed this map showcasing Oregon, the Territory of Washington, and British Columbia. Washington became a territory in 1853, arguing that distances to Willamette Valley kept them from obtaining a voice in the Oregon territorial government. As this map shows, when it split from Oregon proper the Washington territory included parts of Wyoming and Montana and all of Idaho. Territorial government for Idaho would not be approved until 1863. When Mitchell retired he left the business for his son to manage. Washington State University Archives #WSU7. -- Washington State University Archives, 2004 1853 Engraving, Columbia River area indian camp at The Dalles, Oregon, with Mount Hood in the background. (Click to enlarge). Engraving by John M. Stanley, 1853. From the U.S. War Department's Reports of explorations and surveys to ascertain the most practicable and econmical route for a railroad from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean, 1860, v.12, pt.1, pl.43. University of Washington Libraries Collection, #NA4170. -- University of Washington Libraries Website, 2002 1867, The Dalles, Oregon, and Mount Hood. (Click to enlarge). View from Rockland, Washington (today's Dallesport). Photographer: Carleton Watkins. Oregon Historical Society #21577, #1100-A, Columbia Gorge Discovery Center Catalogue #2001.06.003. -- Columbia Gorge Discovery Center Website, 2004 1884, Closer-in detail from engraving of The Dalles, Oregon, and Mount Hood. (Click to enlarge). Created by H. Wellge. Published 1884, J.J. Stoner, Madison, Wisconsin. Panoramic view of the city of The Dalles, Oregon, county seat of Wasco County, 1884. Original lithograph shows The Dalles, Mount Hood, the Columbia River, and the mouth of Mill Creek. Reference #LC Panoramic Maps #727. -- Library of Congress American Memories Website, 2002 ca.1915, Penny Postcard, Mount Hood from near The Dalles. (Click to enlarge). "Mount Hood as seen from bank of the Columbia River near The Dalles, Ore.", A.M. Prentiss Photo. #447, Lipschuetz of Katz, Portland, Oregon. -- L.Topinka private collection, 2003, used with permission. 2004, Mount Hood, Oregon, as seen from Rock Fort, The Dalles, Oregon. (Click to enlarge). Copyright © 2004 Lyn Topinka, private archives, used with permission. 2004, Mount Hood and The Dalles, Oregon, as seen from Dallesport, Washington. (Click to enlarge). Copyright © 2004 Lyn Topinka, private archives, used with permission. Learn MORE about Mount Hood

Here it was necessary to unload and make a portage of seven paces over a rock, round which we then drew the empty boats by means of a cord, and the assistance of setting poles. We then reloaded, and at the distance of five miles, reached the basin at the foot of the long narrows [Big Eddy, today the location near Spearfish Lake Park].

Along the Journey - April 18, 1806

Spearfish Lake Park and the "Big Eddy": The "Big Eddy" was at the foot of the "Five-Mile Rapids", also known as the "Long Narrows". Today, the "Long Narrows" is under the waters of Lake Celilo, the reservoir behind The Dalles Dam. Spearfish Lake Park is a U.S. Army Corps of Engineers day-use park at the location of the "Big Eddy". 1888 Map (section of original), Columbia River at Three Mile Rapids, the Big Eddy, and Five Mile Rapids. (Click to enlarge). Original Map: Map of Columbia River from The Dalles to Celilo, Oregon, 1880. Scale 1:30,000. Relief shown by contours. Shows a section of the Columbia River, including fall and rapids, water gauges, and "basaltic" region. Original map is reduced from sheet 1 and 2, survey of 1879-1880, Published G.P.O. 1889. University of Washington Archives #UW66. -- University of Washington Library Archives Website, 2002 1934 Map (section of original), from The Dalles 1:125,000 topographic quadrangle. (Click to enlarge). The Columbia River upsteam of The Dalles, Oregon (the Washington side is not depicted on this map), including Three Mile Rapids, Big Eddy, and Five Mile Rapids. Original map surveyed in 1929-30, contour interval of 50 feet. -- University of Washington Library Collections Website, 2002 1946 Map (section of original), Columbia River with The Dalles, Three-Mile Rapids, Big Eddy, Five-Mile Rapids. (Click to enlarge). Office of Coast Surveys, Historical Maps and Charts, Columbia River, Bonneville to The Dalles, 1946, Chart#6157, 1:40,000. -- NOAA Office of Coast Survey Website, 2004 1985 Map (section of original), Columbia River with The Dalles, The Dalles Dam, Three-Mile Rapids, Big Eddy, Five-Mile Rapids. (Click to enlarge). Office of Coast Surveys, Historical Maps and Charts, Columbia River, Bonneville to The Dalles, 1985, Chart#18531, 1:40,000. -- NOAA Office of Coast Survey Website, 2004 ca.1925, Mount Hood and The Dalles, Oregon, from Big Eddy. (Click to enlarge). Oregon Historical Society OrHi#100051, Photographer Benjamin C. Markham, approximate Photograph Date: 1925, Columbia Gorge Discovery Center Catalogue #2001.06.006. -- Image from Columbia Gorge Discovery Center Website, 2004, and additional information from U.S. Library of Congress Website, 2004. 2004, Spearfish Lake Park, at the location of the "Big Eddy". (Click to enlarge). Copyright © 2004 Lyn Topinka, private archives, used with permission.

After unloading and arranging the camp, we went up to the Skilloot village, where we found captain Clarke. He had not been able to procure more than four horses, for which he was obliged to give double the price of those formerly purchased from the Shoshonees and the first tribe of Flatheads. These, however, we hoped might be sufficient with the aid of the small canoes to convey our baggage as far as the villages near the Muscleshell rapid [Umatilla Rapids], where horses are cheaper and more abundant, and where we may probably exchange the canoes for as many horses as we want. ...... The long narrows have a much more formidable appearance than when we passed them in the autumn, so that it would, in fact, be impossible either to descend or go up them in any kind of boat. As we had therefore no further use for the two periogues, we cut them up for fuel.

"... Wood here is very scarce, as the Columbia plains have commenced. ..." [Gass April 18, 1806]

Along the Journey - April 18, 1806

The Camp - April 18, 1806: Washington side of the Columbia, in the Big Eddy basin, two miles below the Skilloot Village. Today this location is just upstream of The Dalles Dam, near Spearfish Lake Park.

Saturday, April 19, 1806

Early in the morning, all the party began to carry the merchandise over the portage [Five-Mile Rapids, also known as "The Long Narrows" or "The Dalles"]. This we accomplished with the aid of our four horses, by three o'clock in the afternoon, when we formed our camp a little above the Skilloot village. ......

Along the Journey - April 19, 1806

Five-Mile Rapids ("Long Narrows" or "The Dalles"): The "Long Narrows" was also known as "Five-Mile Rapids", "The Dalles", and "The Great Dalles". During the steamboad era on the Columbia River, rapids in this vicinity were called names representing their distance east from the boat landing at the Dalles. The Five Mile Rapids area was under consideration as a dam site about 1914. Decades later The Dalles Dam was constructed downstream. Excavations in this area show humans have occupied this ideal salmon fishing site for more than 10,000 years. -- Washington State Historical Society Website, 2002, Washington State Lewis and Clark Heritage Website, 2002, Oregon State Archives Website, 2002, and U.S. Forest Service Website, 2002, The Columbia River Gorge 1853-54 Map, Columbia River, including the Hood River to John Day area (section of original). (Click to enlarge). Includes Hood River (Dog River), Klickitat River (Klikatat R.), Mill Creek (?) (Wasco Ck.), The Dalles, The Deschutes (Wanwauwie or des Chutes R.), the John Day River (Mah hah or John Day's R.), and Rock Creek (Camill Cr.). Original Map: "Rocky Mountains to Puget Sound : from explorations and surveys / made under the direction of the Hon. Jefferson Davis, Secretary of War by Isaac I. Stevens Governor of Washington Territory, 1853-4." Inset: (Supplementary sketch) Reconnaissance of the railroad route from Wallawalla to Seattle via Yak-e-mah River & Snoqualmie Pass. By A. W. Tinkham in January 1854. Drawn by J. R. P. Mechlin. 20 x 28 cm. Topographer, John Lambert, Published in Washington D.C., 1859, 1:1,200,000, Notes: From the U.S. War Department, Explorations and Surveys for a Railroad Route from the Mississippi River to the Pacific Ocean, Topographical Maps, to Illustrate the Various Reports, U.S. Library of Congress American Memories Reference "LC Railroad Maps #156". -- U.S. Library of Congress, American Memories Website, 2004 1858 Military Recon Map (section of original), Columbia River and The Dalles Vicinity. (Click to enlarge). Map of military reconnaissance from Fort Dalles, Oregon, via Fort Wallah-Wallah, to Fort Taylor, Washington Territory, 1858. Shows approximate location of military road constructed 1859 to 1862. From the report and maps of Captain John Mullan, United States Army, G.P.O., 1863. University of Washington Archives #UW85. -- University of Washington Library Archives Website, 2002 1887 Map (section of original), Columbia River at The Dalles. (Click to enlarge). Original Map: The Columbia River from Celilo to the mouth showing locations of the salmon fisheries, 1887. Scale ca. 1:375,000, Relief shown by hachures. U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, Engineer Office, G.P.O. 1888. University of Washington Archives #UW128. -- University of Washington Library Archives Website, 2002 1888 Map (section of original), Columbia River at Three Mile Rapids, the Big Eddy, and Five Mile Rapids. (Click to enlarge). Original Map: Map of Columbia River from The Dalles to Celilo, Oregon, 1880. Scale 1:30,000. Relief shown by contours. Shows a section of the Columbia River, including fall and rapids, water gauges, and "basaltic" region. Original map is reduced from sheet 1 and 2, survey of 1879-1880, Published G.P.O. 1889. University of Washington Archives #UW66. -- University of Washington Library Archives Website, 2002 1934 Map (section of original), from The Dalles 1:125,000 topographic quadrangle. (Click to enlarge). The Columbia River upsteam of The Dalles, Oregon (the Washington side is not depicted on this map), including Three Mile Rapids, Big Eddy, and Five Mile Rapids. Original map surveyed in 1929-30, contour interval of 50 feet. -- University of Washington Library Collections Website, 2002 1946 Map (section of original), Columbia River with The Dalle, Three-Mile Rapids, Big Eddy, Five-Mile Rapids. (Click to enlarge). Office of Coast Surveys, Historical Maps and Charts, Columbia River, Bonneville to The Dalles, 1946, Chart#6157, 1:40,000. -- NOAA Office of Coast Survey Website, 2004 1985 Map (section of original), Columbia River with The Dalles, The Dalles Dam, Three-Mile Rapids, Big Eddy, Five-Mile Rapids. (Click to enlarge). Office of Coast Surveys, Historical Maps and Charts, Columbia River, Bonneville to The Dalles, 1985, Chart#18531, 1:40,000. -- NOAA Office of Coast Survey Website, 2004 ca.1879-1909, "The Dalles" (Click to enlarge). A scene in the region served by the Oregon Railway & Navigation Company between 1879-1909. Oregon State Archives Photograph, Photograph Date: 1879-1909, From: Salem Public Library Collection. -- Oregon State Archives Website, 2002 ca.1910, Columbia River area Indians fishing with spears from platforms at The Dalles, Oregon, ca.1910. (Click to enlarge). University of Washington Archives Photograph #NA746, General Indian Collection no.564. Photograph Date: ca.1910. From: University of Washington Libraries, Seattle, Washington -- University of Washington Libraries and the Library of Congress, American Memories Website, 2002 ca.1914, Columbia River at Five-Mile Rapids. (Click to enlarge). Water Resources Department Records, Photographs and Negatives, 93A-011. -- Oregon State Archives Website, 2002 1951, Aerial view, Columbia River at Five-Mile Rapids. (Click to enlarge). U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Photo, April 10, 1951, Five-Mile Rapids and Celilo Falls, Oregon. At center right are No.5 and No.6 fishwheels. Columbia Gorge Discovery Center Archives #1999.04.50b. -- Columbia Gorge Discovery Center Website, 2004. Learn MORE about this Area, Flood Basalts, Lava Plateaus, and Ice Age Floods

In the afternoon captain Clarke set out with four men for the Eneeshur village at the grand falls [Celilo Falls], in order to make further attempts to precure horses.

"... We deturmined to make the portage to the head of the long narrows, the 2 large canoes we could take no further and therefore cut them up for fuel. we had our small canoes drawn up very early and employed all hands in transporting our baggage on their backs and by means of 4 pack horses, over the porttage. This labour we had accomplished by 3. P.M. and established our camp a little above the present Skillute village. I left Capt L. at the bason and proceeded to the village early this morning with a view to receive the horses which were promised to be brought this morning for articles laid by last evining ... I set out with Serjt Pryor, Geo. Shannon Peter Crusat & Labiech at half past 5 P.M. for the Enesher village at which place I arrived at 8 P.M. Several showers of rain in the after part of to day, and thw S W wind very high. ..." The long narrows are much more formidable than they were when we decended them last fall, there would be no possibility of passing either up or down them in any vessle at this time ..." [Clark, April 19, 1806]

Along the Journey - April 19, 1806

The Camp - April 19 and April 20, 1806: Washington side of the Columbia River, upstream of today's The Dalles Dam. Clark's Camp - April 19 and 20, 1806: Enesher Village

Sunday, April 20, 1806

We now found that no more horses could be procured, and therefore prepared for setting out to-morrow. One of the canoes, for which the Indians would give us very little, we cut up for fuel, two others, together with some elk skins and pieces of old iron, we bartered for beads, and the remaining two small canoes were despatched early next morning with all the baggage which could not be carried on horseback.

Along the Journey - April 20, 1806

The Camp - April 19 and April 20, 1806: Washington side of the Columbia River, upstream of today's The Dalles Dam. Clark's Camp - April 19 and 20, 1806: Enesher Village

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June/July 2004, Lyn Topinka
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