The Volcanoes of
Lewis and Clark
Lewis and Clark
|
November 4, 1805 Vancouver, Washington - Columbia River Slough to Ridgefield |
|
Home
The Volcanoes of Lewis and Clark Map of the Journey Volcanoes, Basalt Plateaus, Major Rivers, etc. The Volcanoes Mount Adams, Mount Hood, Mount Jefferson, Mount Rainier, and Mount St. Helens CALENDAR of the Journey October 1805 to June 1806 Along the Journey Pacific Northwest Maps - Columbia River, Volcanoes, Flood Basalts, Missoula Floods, Geology, etc. The Corps of Discovery The Journey of Lewis and Clark About the Reference Materials The Journals, Biddle/Allen, DeVoto, Gass, Moulton, Topo Maps, and others USGS Lewis and Clark Links Links to USGS Websites highlighting the Lewis and Clark Journey Resources Publications Referenced and Websites Visited |
PREVIOUS
November 3 Columbia River Heading West, Rooster Rock to Columbia River Slough |
November 4
Vancouver, Washington, Columbia River Slough to Ridgefield NWR Government Island and Government Island State Rec Area, Interstate 205 Bridge, Portland International Airport, Fort Plain, Tomahawk Island, Fort Vancouver, Fort Vancouver National Historic Site, Pearson Field, Hayden Island, Vancouver (Washington), Interstate 5 Bridge, Willamette River, Portland, Oregon, Sauvie Island, FIVE VOLCANOES, Vancouver Lake and Vancouver Lake Park, and Ridgefield NWR |
CONTINUE
November 5 Heading to the Pacific, Ridgefield NWR to Prescott Beach, Oregon |
On October 7, 1805, Lewis and Clark and the
"Corps of Discovery" began their journey
down the Clearwater River and into the volcanics
of the Pacific Northwest. The Corps travelled from the
Clearwater to the Snake and down the
"Great Columbia", finally reaching the
Pacific Ocean on November 15, 1805.
Along the journey they encountered the
lava flows of the Columbia Plateau,
river channels carved by the great "Missoula Floods",
and the awesome beauty of five Cascade Range volcanoes.
[Click map for brief summary about the area] |
|
To the Pacific - November 1805
Vancouver, Washington - Columbia River Slough to Ridgefield |
| Lewis and Clark's camp of November 3, 1805, was located on the north shore of "Diamond Island", today the island complex known as Government Island. |
| Monday, November 4, 1805 |
| The weather was cloudy and cool, and the wind from the west. During the night, the tide rose eighteen inches near our camp. We set out about eight o'clock, and at the distance of three miles came to the lower end of Diamond island [Government Island]. It is six miles long, nearly three in width, and like the other islands, thinly covered with timber, and has a number of ponds or small lakes scattered over its surface. Besides the animals already mentioned we shot a deer on it this morning. Near the end of Diamond island [Government Island] are two others, separated by a narrow channel filled at high tides only, which continue on the right for the distance of three miles, and like the adjacent low grounds, are thickly covered with pine. |
| Since 1982 th Interstate 205 Bridge has crossed Government Island linking Portland, Oregon, with Vancouver, Washington. |
|
|
Government Island and Government Island State Recreation Area: In 1805 Lewis and Clark reached a cluster of Islands - the easternmost one they called "Diamond Island" because of it's shape. Their camp of November 3, 1805 was on this island. Today, the largest island in this cluster is known as Government Island, a name acquired when the military grazed cattle on the island. Government, Lemon, and McGuire Islands are located in the Columbia River northeast of Portland International Airport between Columbia River River Mile 111.5 and River Mile 119. The island complex, consists of approximately 2,200 acres. Access to Government Island is by boat only. There are two docks and a floating tie-up on the north side of the island. With 15 miles of shoreline and a free primitive campground, the park is popular with anglers. The interior of the island is still used as a cattle ranch and also contains protected natural areas. Entry to the interior is prohibited. -- Port of Portland Website, 2002, and Oregon State Parks and Recreation Website, 2003 
Interstate-205 Bridge: In 1982, the Interstate-205 Bridge (Glenn Jackson Bridge) was completed, spanning the Columbia River from Portland, Oregon, to Vancouver, Washington. Part of the bridge crosses Government Island.
|
| Just below the last, we landed on the left bank of the river, at a village of twenty-five houses [today's Portland International Airport]. ...... |
|
|
Portland International Airport: Today's Portland International Airport (PDX) was the former site of a Neerchokioo village, used by the Shahala Indians as a temporary residence for gathering wapato, a potato-like water root. Visited twice by Lewis and Clark, the site is now under the airport parking structure. PDX is located 10 miles east of downtown Portland, Oregon. -- Lewis and Clark Bicentennial in Oregon Website, 2002 
|
| We resumed our journey, and at seven miles distance came to the head of a large island near the left [Hayden Island, see information below]. On the right shore is a fine open prairie [Fort Plain, today's Vancouver, Washington, area between Ryan Point and Fort Vancouver/Pearson Airpark] for about a mile, back of which the country rises, and is supplied with timber, such as white oak, pine of different kinds, wild crab, and several species of undergrowth, while along the borders of the river, there are only a few cottonwood and ash trees. In this prairie were also signs of deer and elk. |
| "... I walked out on the Stard. Side found the country fine, an open Prarie for 1 mile back of which the wood land comence riseing back ... a Pond on the Stard Side, off from the river. ..." [Clark, November 4, 1805, first draft] |
| "... at 7 miles below this village passed the upper point of a large Island nearest the Lard. Side, a Small Prarie in which there is a pond opposit on the Stard. Here I landed and walked on Shore, about 3 miles a fine open Prarie for about 1 mile, back of which the countrey rises gradually and wood land comencies ..." [Clark, November 4, 1805] |
| Many ponds - now filled in - were in this area around Ryan Point, Fort Vancouver, and Pearson Airpark. Mount Hood, Oregon, is visible throughout this entire section of the Columbia River. Today this section is heavily built-up with industry and condominiums. |
|
|
Fort Plain: The area between Fort Vancouver National Historic Site, Pearson Airpark, and Ryan Point, was once called "Fort Plain", a former area of prairie and wetlands that formed a highly productive location for native food resources. In the mid-19th century, this place was called "Fort Plain" through its association with the Hudson's Bay Company's Fort Vancouver. Prehistoric artifacts found at Fort Vancouver National Historic Site confirm that American Indians occupied Fort Plain long before Lewis & Clark arrived. Fort Plain has been identified as a Lewis and Clark stopping place associated with their travels down the Columbia River on November 4, 1805, and a campsite during their travels up the Columbia on March 30, 1806. The journals identify a small prairie and pond at the upstream point of a large island, corresponding to modern Tomahawk Island. -- U.S. National Park Service, Fort Vancouver Historic Reserve Website, 2003
|
| When we landed for dinner, a number of Indians from the last village, came down for the purpose, as we supposed, of paying us a friendly visit, as they had put on their favourite dresses. ...... We smoked with them and endeavoured to show them every attention, but we soon found them very assuming and disagreeable companions. ...... |
| "... dureing the time we were at dinner those fellows Stold my pipe Tomahawk which they were Smoking with, I imediately Serched every man and the canoes, but Could find nothing of my Tomahawk ..." [Clark, November 4, 1805] |
| Lewis and Clark referred to this island as "Tomahawk Island", a name which in 1927 was re-assigned to a new island on the upstream tip of Hayden Island. |
|
|
Tomahawk Island: Lewis and Clark gave the name "Tomahawk Island" to a small island between "Image Canoe Island" (Hayden Island) and the Washington shore of the Columbia River after an incident during which Clark's tomahawk pipe was stolen. The island was eventually washed away. In 1927 the United States Board of Geographic Names (USBGN) was petitioned to assign the name to a new island that formed on the upstream end of Hayden Island. The new Tomahawk Island, along with Hayden Island have now been consolidated by river silting and road construction. -- Washington State Historical Society Website, 2004, "Lasting Legacy"
|
| We then proceeded [Fort Vancouver and Pearson Field area] |
|
|
Fort Vancouver: In May, 1792, American trader/sailor Robert Gray became the first non-native to enter the fabled "Great River of the West," the Columbia River. Later that year, British Lt. William Broughton, serving under Capt. George Vancouver, explored 100 miles upriver. Along the way, he named a point of land along the shore in honor of his commander. In 1806, American explorers Meriwether Lewis and William Clark camped near the Vancouver waterfront on the return leg of their famed western expedition. Lewis characterized the area as "the only desired situation for settlement west of the Rocky Mountains." In 1825, Dr. John McLoughlin decided to move the northwest headquarters of the Hudson's Bay Company from Astoria to a more favorable setting upriver. He named the site after Point Vancouver on Broughton's original map. Fort Vancouver was thus born. The new site was on the north bank of the Columbia, slightly upstream from the mouth of the Willamette River on the opposite side. The fort itself, after an initial, arduous four years on a nearby bluff, would be built on a plain with easy access to the water, but just beyond the flood plain. The surrounding environment was broad areas of prairie and trees, sloping upward to dense fir forests; it was known as Jolie Prairie or Belle Vue Point because of its intense natural beauty. McLoughlin's superiors were well pleased with the choice, not only for its situation, but most importantly for its rich pasture and amenable climate. -- City of Vancouver Website, 2002, and U.S. National Park Service Website, Fort Vancouver National Historic Site, 2002 
Fort Vancouver National Historic Site: Fort Vancouver became a National Monument in 1948 and a National Historic Site in 1961. In 1996, the 366-acre Vancouver National Historic Reserve was established to protect adjacent, historically significant historical areas. It includes Fort Vancouver National Historic Site, as well as Vancouver Barracks, Officers' Row, Pearson Field, The Water Resources Education Center, and portions of the Columbia River waterfront. The General O.O. Howard House serves as the visitor center for the Reserve, and is staffed by National Park Service personnel. -- U.S. National Park Service Website, Fort Vancouver National Historic Site, 2002 Pearson Field: In 1905, one hundred years after the Lewis and Clark expedition, Lincoln Beachey in the dirigible, The Gelatin, took off from Jantzen Beach, Oregon (during Portland's 1905 Lewis and Clark Exposition) and landed on the polo grounds of Vancouver Barracks, Vancouver, Washington. This was the first aerial crossing of the Columbia River, and marked the beginning of Pearson Field, which today remains the oldest continually operating airfield in the United States. -- Pearson Airpark Museum Website, 2004 |
| and soon met two canoes with twelve men of the same Skilloot nation, who were on their way from below. The larger of the canoes was ornamented with the figure of a bear in the bow, and a man in the stern, both nearly as large as life, both made of painted wood, and very neatly fixed to the boat. In the same canoe were two Indians finely dressed and with round hats. This circumstance induced us to give the name of Image canoe to the large island [Hayden Island], the lower end of which we now passed at the distance of nine miles from its head. |
|
|
Hayden Island: Lewis and Clark called this island "Image Canoe Island", because of the ornamented native canoes that they observed on its shore. Today the island is named after Guy Hayden, an early Oregon pioneer, who once owned the island. -- Washington State Historical Society Website, 2004, "Lasting Legacy"
|
| The City of Vancouver, Washington, was incorporated in this area in 1857. Between 1915 and 1917, the Interstate-5 bridge was constructed, connecting Hayden Island, Oregon, with Vancouver, Washington. Mount St. Helens can be seen from Hayden Island. |
|
|
Vancouver, Washington: In 1845, Amos and Esther Short and their eight children landed at Fort Vancouver, and eventually located a donation land claim in the wilderness near the fort and built a cabin. In 1855 Mrs. Esther Short platted the city of Vancouver, donated Esther Short Park and a long strip of waterfront to the city, and in 1857, the City of Vancouver was incorporated. -- City of Vancouver Website, 2004, and U.S. National Park Service Website, 2004, Fort Vancouver National Historic Site.
Interstate-5 Bridge: Between 1915 and 1917, one of the largest bridges ever built up until this time was constructed over the Columbia River, between Vancouver, Washington and Hayden Island, Oregon. This bridge was more than a feat of engineering -- its construction signified an unprecedanted degree of co-operation between the citizens of Multnomah County, Oregon and Clark County, Washington who, dissatisfied with the inadequacies of the existing ferry system - the only connecting link for pedestrians and automobiles in this vicinity - eagerly rallied to the cause of an interstate bridge campaign. The bridge paved the way for a new era in automobile transportaion in the region, an era that developed so rapidly that a second, almost identical structure had to be bult alongside it some forty years later to keep pace with the enormous increase in interstate traffic. Dates of construction: 1915-1917 northbound, and 1956 southbound. -- U.S. Library of Congress Website, 2003, "American Memories"
|
| We had seen two smaller islands to the right, and three more near its lower extremity. The Indians in the canoe here made signs that there was a village behind those islands, and indeed we presumed there was a channel on that side of the river, for one of the canoes passed in that direction between the small islands, but we were anxious to press forward, and therefore did not stop to examine more minutely. |
| On their return trip in 1806, Lewis and Clark discovered and explored the Willamette River. Today, the city of Portland, Oregon, is built up along the banks of the Lower Willamette. |
|
|
Willamette River: Most of Oregon's population, technology and agricultural centers, and important transportion, power, and communications lifelines are located in the Willamette Valley of western Oregon. The lowlands of the Willamette Valley extend approximately 75 miles along the Willamette River and contain the major cities of Portland, Salem, Corvallis, and Eugene. The valley is part of the Willamette River drainage basin, which covers 12,300 square miles between the crest of the Oregon Coast Range on the west and the Cascade Range to the east. The Willamette River is the largest river in the valley and is fed by several major tributaries, including the McKenzie, Calapooia, Santiam, Tualatin, Yamhill, and Clakamas Rivers. The valley is the major source of ground and surface water for the population centers. -- Givler and Wells, 2001 
Portland, Oregon: In 1843, Tennessee drifter William Overton and Massachusetts lawyer Asa Lovejoy beached their canoe on the banks of the Willamette River. Overcome by the beauty of the area, Overton saw great potential for this mountain-ringed, timber-rich land. His only problem was that he lacked the 25 cents needed to file a land claim. So, he struck a bargain with Lovejoy -- In return for a quarter, Overton would share his claim to the 640-acre site known as "The Clearing." Soon bored with clearing trees and building roads, Overton drifted on, selling his half of the claim to Francis W. Pettygrove. The new partners, Lovejoy and Pettygrove, couldn't decide on a name for their new township. Lovejoy was determined to name the site after his hometown of Boston, Massachusetts, while Pettygrove was equally adamant about his native Portland, Maine. They decided to flip a coin, now known as the "Portland Penny", to settle the argument. Pettygrove won on two tosses out of three. Lovejoy and Pettygrove were confident that Portland, with its deep water and abundant natural resources, would one day become a popular and prosperous port. Portland was officially incorporated on February 8, 1851, and today covers 130 square miles. -- Portland, Oregon Visitor's Association Website, 2003
|
| The river [Columbia River] was now about a mile and a half in width, with a gentle current, the bottoms extensive and low, but not subject to be overflowed. Three miles below the Image canoe island [Hayden Island] we came to four large houses on the left side [located on Sauvie Island], |
|
|
Sauvie Island: Sauvie Island contains approximately 24,000 acres of land and lakes, and had its origin in alluvial deposits from the Columbia and Willamette rivers as their velocities decreased by changes in direction and by lava extrusions located on the north end. The island is 16 miles long and 4.5 miles at the widest point. The Sauvie Island wildlife area includes 8,053 acres of deeded land and 3,490 acres of land leased from the Division of State Lands for wildlife management purposes. The island is bounded on the east by the Columbia River; on the south by the Willamette River and on the west by the Multnomah Channel. Across the river on the Washington side, Scappoose Bay provides fish and wildlife habitat. -- Columbia Basin Fish and Wildlife Authority Website, 2002, Oregon State Archives Website, 2002, and Washington State Historical Society Website, 2002
|
| at which place we had a full view of the mountain which we first saw on the 19th of October, from the Muscleshell rapid [Umatilla Rapids], and which we now find to be the mount St. Helen of Vancouver. It bears north 25o east, about ninety miles distant; it rises in the form of a sugar loaf to a very great height, and is covered with snow. |
| "... (Encamped on the Lard. Side. Mt. Ranier) Mount Hellen bears N. 25o E about 80 miles, this is the mountain we Saw near the forks of this river. it is emensely high and covered with Snow, riseing in a kind of Cone perhaps the highest pinecal from the common leavel in america ..." [Clark, November 4, 1805, first draft] |
| "... at 3 miles lower, and 12 Leagues below quick Sand river passed a village of four large houses on The Lard. Side, near which we had a full view of 'Mt. Helien' which is perhaps the highest pinical in America from their base it bears N. 25o. E. about 90 miles -- This is the mountain I Saw from the Muscle Shell rapid on the 19th of October last Covered with Snow, it rises Something in the form of a Sugar lofe -- ..." [Clark, November 4, 1805] |
| Initially in this passage William Clark refers to this mountain as Mount Rainier, and then corrects himself when both became visible further downstream. His correction however was still in error, as he refers to Mount St. Helens being the mountain they viewed on October 19, 1805, near the junction of the Snake River with the Columbia, when in reality that mountain was Mount Adams. The Gass, Ordway, and Whitehouse Journals make no correction and all refer to Mount St. Helens as Mount Rainier. |
| "... We went 28 miles and encamped on the north side. In the evening we saw Mount Rainy on the same side. It is a handsome point of a mountain, with little or no timber on it, very high, and a considerable distance off this place. ..." [Gass, November 4, 1805] |
| "... we discovred a high round mountain Some distance back from the River on the Stard Side which is called mount rainy ..." [Ordway, November 4, 1805] |
| "... we discovered a high round mountain some dis back from the River on Stard. Side which is called mount Rainy. we are not yet out of Site of Mount Hood which is covd. with Snow ..." [Whitehouse, November 4, 1805] |
| "... We discovered a mountain, which lay on the North side of the River, some distance back from it. It appeared to be round, and is called Mount Rainey . We are not yet out of sight of Mount Hood, which from this place appears to be covered with Snow. ..." [Whitehouse, November 4, 1805] |
| On a clear day FIVE VOLCANOES can be seen along this stretch of the river. |
|
|
Mount Jefferson, Oregon, (circled): as seen from Blurock Landing, Washington. Blurock Landing is across the Columbia River from the mouth of the Willamette River, Oregon. Copyright © 2003 Lyn Topinka, private archives, used with permission. 
Mount Hood, Oregon: as seen from Blurock Landing, Washington. Blurock Landing is across the Columbia River from the mouth of the Willamette River, Oregon. Copyright © 2003 Lyn Topinka, private archives, used with permission. 
Mount St. Helens, Washington: as seen from Blurock Landing, Washington. Blurock Landing is across the Columbia River from the mouth of the Willamette River, Oregon. Copyright © 2003 Lyn Topinka, private archives, used with permission. 
Mount Adams, Washington: as seen from Blurock Landing, Washington. Blurock Landing is across the Columbia River from the mouth of the Willamette River, Oregon. Copyright © 2003 Lyn Topinka, private archives, used with permission. 
Mount Rainier, Washington: as seen from Blurock Landing, Washington. Blurock Landing is across the Columbia River from the mouth of the Willamette River, Oregon. Copyright © 2003 Lyn Topinka, private archives, used with permission. |
| A mile lower we passed a single house on the left, and another on the right. [Vancouver Lake vicinity] |
|
|
Vancouver Lake: Vancouver Lake lies just north and west of Vancouver, Washington. Vancouver Lake County Park is a 234-acre park, bordering Vancouver Lake for 2.5 miles, with thirty-five acres of developed land. Picnicking, play structure, windsurfing, and sand volleyball number among the activities that can be enjoyed here. Swimming is allowed in a cordoned swimming area. No lifeguards are on duty. In addition, Vancouver Lake is the site of many college and professional rowing competitions during the year. Vancouver Lake County Park is also a wetlands haven for wildlife and migratory waterfowl. There are good views of Mount St. Helens, Mount Adams, and Mount Hood from Vancouver Lake. On a clear day, Mount Rainier and Mount Jefferson can also be seen. -- Vancouver Parks and Recreation Website, 2003
|
| The Indians had now learnt so much of us, that their curiosity was without any mixture of fear, and their visits became very frequent and troublesome. We therefore continued on till after night, in hopes of getting rid of them; but after passing a village on each side, which on account of the lateness of the hour we saw indistinctly, we found there was no escaping from their importunities. We therefore landed at the distance of seven miles below Image canoe island [Hayden Island], and encamped [in Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge] near a single house on the right, having made during the day twenty-nine miles. ...... |
|
|
Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge: The Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge Complex is comprised of five refuges located in the southwest part of the state of Washington: Ridgefield north of Vancouver; Conboy in the southcentral part of the state; and Franz Lake, Pierce and Steigerwald Lake all located in the Columbia River Gorge. The refuge north of Vancouver, Washington, was established in 1965 in response to a need to establish vital winter habitat for the dusky Canada goose whose nesting areas in Alaska were severly impacted by the violent earthquake of 1964. This refuge is the location of two Lewis and Clark campsites (November 4, 1805 and March 29, 1806), and is an ancient Chinook townsite visited by the Expedition. In their journals, Lewis and Clark described the wapato plants that were harvested by the Chinook women, as well as, the geese and ducks that kept them awake at night. These species are still here today. Trails, auto tour, and wildlife viewing. Located 14 miles north of Vancouver, Washington. -- U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service Website, 2002, Lewis and Clark Bicentennial Website, 2002, and Lewis and Clark Bicentennial in Oregon Website, 2002 
|
|
|
|
The Camp - November 4, 1805:
In today's Ridgefield National Wildlife Refuge. |
| Home | Previous | Continue |
If you have questions or comments please contact: GS-CVO-WEB@usgs.gov
June/July 2004, Lyn Topinka
The Volcanoes of Lewis and Clark Home Page | CVO Home Page